Day 1
Stepping out of Hanoi Noibai Airport after a 2 1/2 hour, we didn't have to wait long before we were being lead to an MPV that managed to squeeze all of us in. It was relatively quiet at the airport and nothing prepared us for what we were about to encounter once we hit the highway. The immediate thing was the driving. Vietnamese never stop beeping their horns, not in aggression but to warn others. It was ok at first, but when motorcycles, cars, big lorries and loads of vans all do it at the same time, it starts to get on my nerves a little. It's hard to identify any traffic rules whatsoever. Nevertheless, it adds to the list of unique Vietnamese cultures.

We arrived at our cosy little "home", Thu Giang guesthouse, after an exciting and colourful 1 hour ride from the airport. Looking around I realised the streets of Hanoi were actually cleaner than what I had expected. At the same time, I was amazed by the ways the local people transport long wooden planks, livestock, baskets and even furnaces on tiny scooters and still be able to avoid causing any accidents. They are masters of saving petrol and space as one scooter could bring a family of four on a day trip to the market.

First day in Hanoi was spent exploring the streets, taking tons of photographs and taking in how the Vietnamese people go about living their everyday lives. Of course not forgetting trying out the famous beef pho (pronounced as "fah" by english speakers) and chicken ph?. We made a brief stop at the Hoan Kiem Lake and the rest of the night was spent exploring the Dong Xuan Night Market and gulping down mugs of local beer that cost 30 cents each!

Day 2
The next morning we caught a 3 hour ride to one of the World Heritage Sites, Ha Long Bay. Once we got on the junk boats and cruised through the 2,000 limestone sturctures, it made the exhausting mini-van ride all worth it. The water was green and tempting but sadly most of the rocks were hidden behind a thin blanket of haze. But with the sun just barely breaking through the clouds and haze, it was possible to stay on the top deck and enjoy the tranquility throughout the cruise. After an amazing seafood lunch, we hit the grandest caves in the area, known as the Heavenly Palace. Spectacular was the only word worthy of describing it. It takes 100 years to form 1 centimeter of the limestone structure and by looking at the size of the cave, my maths failed me.

By the time we got back to Hanoi, it was already 8pm in the evening. And probably due to a miscommunication, we had our little adrenaline pumping "Amazing Race" adventure to catch our 8-hour sleeper train ride that was headed for Sapa.

Day 3 & 4
Due to a "misfortune" of not being able to secure rooms at the Moutain View Hotel in Sapa, we were being offered a home-stay experience in one of the 30-odd tribes in the mountains. It ended up turning into another unexpected adventure that again made the trip worthwhile.

We met up with our guide, Loc, who was as enthusiastic as us when it comes to introducing the history of Sapa, and the cultures of the different tribes living in the mountain valleys.

Sapa is a former hill station built in 1922. Nestled in a beautiful valley close to the Chinese border, the spectacular scenery that surrounds Sapa includes cascading rice terraces that hug the heights looming over town. The mountains are often cloaked in mist that rolls back and forth along the mountaintops, offering tantalizing glimpses of what lives in wait on a clear day. The valleys and villages around Sapa are home to host of hill-tribe people who wander into town to buy, sell and trade.

The recent tourist boom has caused a change in Sapa's fortunes. Roads have been upgraded, many streets have been given names, countless new hotels have popped up, the electricity supply is reliable and the food has improved immeasurably. Inherent in all of this prosperity is cultural change for the Montagnards, many of whom are now well versed in the ways of cash economy and are reaping the financial rewards of tourism influx.

Along the way, some H'mong people accompanied us all the way to our lunch stop, all the while providing a helping hand down slippery slopes and terraces. They were also particularly "enthusiastic" when it comes to selling us handicrafts and needleworks and we were often flocked by them whenever there was an opportunity. Apart from being slightly breathless from the trek, the view along the way was the other breathtaking factor. We stopped countless times to capture the beauty of the whole scenery but the pictures will never fully display the magnificence of the sights that we saw with our eyes.

After some 15km of trekking and a game of soccer (yes, I played soccer on Vietnamese soil!) with the local kids in one of their school compounds, we reached the Da-Van Commune. Our extremely hospitable host for the night was a family from the Dzay People who treated us to afternoon tea on the front porch of their humble house where we just relaxed and took in more sights of the mountain range and the people bringing their buffaloes back home.

Dinner was simple fare but no-doubt sumptuous. According the local customs, everyone at the table had to gulp down a small glass of rice wine before dinner, and it didn't just stop there. Rounds and rounds of wine were being served and I realised I've never laughed so much during a meal. Being in the mountains, there weren't any night activities after dinner apart from sitting down at the front porch again, gulping more wine and reflecting on the experience we've had so far in Vietnam. There was also much international interaction at the table, with our local guide, my malaysian colleagues, a japanese traveller and our lady host, who poured us wine non-stop.

Waking up to see the sun climb from behind the mountains the following morning was a one-of a-kind feeling that I'll never have back home. People and buffaloes were already toiling in the fields and the air was especially fresh. After bidding farewell to our host, we made another 2-hour trek to the Red Dzao village for lunch, passing rice terraces, a waterfall and bamboo forest, before taking a car back to Sapa town. It was an amazing feeling how just a short 2-day stay in the mountains could make me look back and wished I had stayed longer.

A short walk around the town area and 2 hours later, we ended our short but fulfilling stay in Sapa and headed back to Hanoi by train, one that constantly had its toilets locked up and people sleeping along the passageways.

Day 5
The final day was spent lazing around in one of the many coffeehouses in Hanoi, since our flight was in the afternoon, taking in as much of the local sights and sounds (minus the honking) as possible before leaving this culture-rich country. It had been a trip filled with surprises and unexpected adventures and nevertheless, one that we all will remember for a long time. Who knows, we might go back to the mountains just to walk the terraces again some day.

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